The Gem

Guides

Buying guides and honest assessments of fine jewellery. Platinum vs white gold, Hatton Garden, Cartier Love pre-owned, and the diamond market in 2026.

A gold hoop earring shown in closeup against a white background.
Guides

The Best Gold Hoop Earrings at Every Price Point

What gold hoop earrings actually cost by tier - plated, vermeil, and solid gold - and what changes between each price point.

A gold signet ring on a pale surface.
Guides

Signet Rings for Women: The Complete Buying Guide

Two distinct markets sell signet rings to women — heritage hand-engraved houses and contemporary demi-fine ones, and which to choose.

Layered demi-fine jewellery pieces, representative of the Astrid & Miyu, Daisy London, and Otiumberg comparison.
Guides

Astrid & Miyu vs Daisy London vs Otiumberg: Which Is Worth Your Money?

An honest comparison of three London demi-fine jewellery brands — different philosophies, different buyers, and which one actually fits how you shop.

9ct vs 18ct vs 22ct Gold: Which Should You Actually Buy?
Guides

9ct vs 18ct vs 22ct Gold: Which Should You Actually Buy?

Carat measures the proportion of pure gold in an alloy, not quality. A precise, no-marketing guide to 9ct, 18ct, and 22ct gold — hallmarks, durability, and which suits what you're actually buying.

A gold signet ring shown in profile against a pale surface.
Guides

Signet Ring Shapes: Oval, Cushion, Oxford, and Which Suits Which Hand

Oxford oval, cushion, shield, or round — how to match a signet ring shape to your hand and knuckle width, with real face-size numbers to work from.

A vivid green emerald showing the characteristic jardin inclusions of a natural stone.
Guides · Buying Guides

Emerald Buying Guide: What to Look For and What to Avoid

Inclusions are not a flaw in an emerald — they are the condition of its existence. A complete guide to buying natural emeralds: colour, oil treatment, origin, and where to buy.

A deep blue sapphire engagement ring in a platinum setting.
Guides · Buying Guides

The Best Sapphire Engagement Rings: 15 Worth Considering

From Ceylon clusters to Kashmir originals: a buying guide to the best sapphire engagement rings across every budget, with retailer recommendations and what to check before you buy.

An emerald cut diamond ring, showing the characteristic step facets and long rectangular table.
Guides · Diamond Cuts

The Emerald Cut: Why It Suits Almost Nobody and Almost Everybody

The emerald cut is the least forgiving diamond shape and the most authoritative. A complete guide to proportions, clarity, colour, and who it actually suits.

Close-up of a clear diamond and a blue gemstone side by side, illustrating hardness and durability differences among gemstones.
Guides · Gemstone Knowledge

The Wearability Index: What the Mohs Scale Actually Tells You About Wearing Fine Jewellery

The Mohs scale measures hardness, not durability. Which gemstones survive daily wear, which need a bezel setting, and which are for occasions only.

A Belle Époque-style diamond and pearl tiara displayed on white silk fabric, surrounded by green figs and gooseberries.
Guides

How to Buy Jewellery at Auction: A Beginner's Guide to Sotheby's, Christie's, and Beyond

How to buy jewellery at auction for the first time. What to expect at Sotheby's, Christie's, and Bonhams — including buyer's premium, condition reports, and how not to overbid.

Missoma, Monica Vinader, and Mejuri store frontages — the three demi-fine jewellery brands compared
Guides · Buying Guides

Monica Vinader vs Mejuri vs Missoma: Which Is Actually Worth Your Money?

An honest comparison of the three brands that dominate the demi-fine jewellery market. Different buyers, different answers — here is how to choose.

A dealer's tray of antique and vintage rings at an open market, densely arranged on black velvet; gold settings with cabochon stones in onyx, coral, turquoise, and carnelian, alongside silver and mixed-metal pieces, photographed from above against a warm amber background.
Guides · Considered Buying

The Collector's Edit: Where to Buy Genuine Antique and Period Jewellery Online

The most trusted platforms for buying genuine antique and estate jewellery online; from 1stDibs to Sotheby's, Christie's, Vestiaire Collective, and beyond.

Close-up macro photograph of three UK hallmarks on the inner shank of a yellow gold ring — a sponsor's mark in an octagonal shield, the number 18 in a shaped cartouche indicating 18-carat gold, and an assay office or date letter mark to the right.
Guides · Buying Guides

UK Jewellery Hallmarks Explained: The Complete Guide

UK jewellery hallmarks date to 1300 — the oldest consumer protection in the world. How to read them: what the marks mean and where to find them.

An overhead view of a pile of gold-tone jewellery heaped in a white ceramic dish — chains of various link styles, rings, earrings, and pendants in a tangled, undifferentiated mass.
Guides · Building a Collection

How to Build a Jewellery Collection: A Practical Guide to Starting Well

Most jewellery collections are not collections — they are accumulations. A practical guide to building one deliberately, in the right order.

A close-up of a two-stone diamond bypass ring on a dark stone surface — yellow gold shank with a white metal (platinum or white gold) crossover setting holding two round brilliant diamonds.
Guides · Buying Guides

Platinum vs White Gold: The Honest Answer

Most white gold rings aren't actually white. The thing to know before choosing between platinum and white gold — and what jewellers don't mention.

The corner of Hatton Garden and Greville Street, EC1, showing a row of jewellery businesses including Flawless Fine Jewellery in the foreground, with street signs for both roads visible and pedestrians on the pavement.
Guides · London Shopping

Hatton Garden: The Complete Buyer's Guide to London's Jewellery Quarter

Hatton Garden is London's jewellery quarter, and more accessible than most people expect. A guide to buying there: what to look for, what to avoid.

A stack of four Cartier Love bracelets on a wrist — three in yellow gold and one in white gold — showing the screw-motif exterior and the standard stacking configuration.
Guides · Buying Guides

The Cartier Love Bracelet: A Buyer's Guide to New, Pre-Owned, and Fake

The Cartier Love bracelet is one of the most traded — and most faked — luxury pieces. What it costs, how to authenticate, new vs pre-owned.

A Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra bracelet in yellow gold with malachite four-petal motifs on one wrist, alongside a plain silver bangle on the other, worn with a black outfit.
Guides · Buying Guides

The Van Cleef Alhambra: Is It Worth Buying (and Does It Hold Its Value)?

The Van Cleef Alhambra has one of the most consistent resale records of any modern jewellery piece. What it costs, what it holds, and how to buy one.

A late Victorian or Edwardian amethyst and seed pearl brooch in yellow gold scrollwork, photographed in its original fitted burgundy velvet presentation box, surrounded by purple harebells.
Guides · How To

How to Wear a Brooch in 2026 Without Looking Like Your Grandmother

The brooch is back, and not ironically. How to wear one in 2026 — where to pin it, what to avoid, and why the piece in your jewellery box is worth wearing.

Two silver signet rings on a heavily tattooed hand — a cushion-shaped ring engraved with a face motif, and a square-topped ring with a black stone set in ornate silverwork — held alongside a folding knife.
Guides · Considered Buying

The Best Signet Rings for Men: A 2026 Buying Guide

The best signet rings for men in 2026, from Rebus and Castro Smith to vintage Hatton Garden finds. Shapes, engraving, makers, and how to wear one.

A diamond halo engagement ring with a round brilliant centre stone set in a rose gold milgrain bezel, on a split white gold shank pavé-set with accent diamonds.
Guides · Market Analysis

The Diamond Market in 2026: What's Actually Happening

Natural diamond prices are down 30-40% since 2021, lab-grown down over 75%. What's driving it, who it affects, and what to do if you're buying or selling now.

Three coloured-stone rings on a dark reflective surface: an oval emerald three-stone ring in yellow gold, a pink sapphire cluster ring in rose gold, and a diamond and blue sapphire half-eternity band in white gold.
Guides · Considered Buying

The Engagement Ring Guide: Every Stone Beyond Diamond

An honest guide to engagement ring stones beyond diamond — sapphire, emerald, ruby, moissanite, morganite, paraiba, salt-and-pepper, and how to choose.

Overhead view of hands polishing a crystal-set pendant with a lint-free cloth, surrounded by a spread of fashion jewellery, tweezers, a soapy water bowl, and a jewellery loupe on a dark stone surface.
Guides · Complete Guide

How to Care for Your Jewellery: A Complete Guide

How to clean and care for your jewellery: by metal type, by stone type, storage, the chlorine problem, and when to see a professional jeweller.

A jewellery valuation session
Guides · Complete Guide

How to Sell Your Jewellery: A Guide to Every Route, Honestly

How to sell jewellery: get an independent appraisal first, choose the right route (auction, dealer, or platform), and what to expect for inherited pieces.

A Cartier Love ring in yellow gold alongside a sapphire and diamond set ring, gold bangles, a pearl and sapphire pendant, and a heavy gold belcher chain, arranged on a white cloth surface.
Guides · Considered Buying

Jewellery That Holds Its Value: A Realistic Guide

Which jewellery actually holds or appreciates in value: signed pieces, fine vintage, certain stones. What doesn't: mass-market retail, lab-grown, trend pieces.

Three loose white diamonds — heart-cut, cushion-cut, and round brilliant — displayed unset on a dark navy surface, showing characteristic brilliance and light dispersion across all three cuts.
Guides · Buying

Lab-Grown vs Natural Diamonds: Which Is Actually Worth It in 2026?

Lab-grown diamond prices fell roughly 75% in four years. A clear, honest guide to whether lab or natural diamonds are worth it in 2026.

Four open-cuff bangles in yellow gold, rose gold, and silver, each set with bezel-set cabochon semi-precious stones — amethyst, kyanite, citrine, aquamarine, and sapphire — arranged on a pale pink geometric surface.
Guides · Gemstone Knowledge

Precious vs Semi-Precious Stones: What the Distinction Means, and Doesn't

Precious vs semi-precious stones, where the distinction came from, why most gemmologists now ignore it, and what actually drives gemstone value today.

Four antique and vintage pendant necklaces arranged on dark velvet and linen — an Edwardian double-strand negligée, a yellow gold filigree pear-cut diamond pendant, an Edwardian sapphire and seed pearl drop, and an Art Deco platinum geometric bar pendant — with a jewellery display bust and wooden box in the background.
Guides · Considered Buying

Where to Buy Vintage Jewellery: The Best Shops in London and Online

Where to buy vintage jewellery in London and online, from Hatton Garden to 1stDibs, with budget tiers, hallmark tips, and what to walk away from.

View from behind of a woman wearing five layered pearl necklaces — including round freshwater strands, a baroque pearl strand, and a delicate pendant — with matching drop earrings, against a navy background.
Guides · Modern Classics

How to Wear Pearls in 2026: The New Rules

How to wear pearls in 2026, from baroque strands with denim to men's pearl necklaces. The types, the styling, the mistakes, and the brands worth knowing.