How to Care for Your Jewellery: A Complete Guide

Fine jewellery requires less maintenance than most things of equivalent value, and substantially more care than most people actually give it. The gap between those two statements is where most jewellery damage happens: not from catastrophic accidents but from daily habits that seem innocuous and are not. Rings left on for swimming. Pearls sprayed with perfume before the second thought. Chains stored together in a bowl. Diamonds cleaned with toothpaste because someone said the abrasive was good for them. It was not.

The piece that follows is the practical guide to jewellery care that most resources get wrong. The standard online advice in this category is either vague ("handle with care") or specifically incorrect (toothpaste, vinegar, and baking soda appear regularly in guides that have not considered what abrasives and acids do to soft stones and metal surfaces). The approach here is different: each rule comes with the reason, because understanding why you shouldn't put emeralds in an ultrasonic cleaner is understanding something real about what emeralds actually are — and that knowledge carries further than any tip list.

The order rule

The single most protective daily habit is also the simplest: jewellery on last, jewellery off first. Put jewellery on after applying perfume, moisturiser, hairspray, sunscreen, and makeup. Remove it before washing hands, cleaning the house, applying hand cream, cooking, exercising, or going to sleep.

The reason is straightforward. Most cosmetic and cleaning products are either mildly acidic (perfumes, some skincare), mildly abrasive (hand scrubs), or contain chemicals (acetone in nail varnish remover, ammonia in some glass cleaners, bleach in household cleaners) that react with metal alloys, dull stone surfaces, or, in the case of pearls and opals, permanently damage the material. The residues accumulate over months and years of daily exposure in ways that a single cleaning session cannot undo.

Perfume is the most commonly overlooked offender for pearls specifically. Alcohol in fragrance dries out the nacre (the calcium carbonate structure of the pearl), which in the long term contributes to surface crazing and reduced lustre. The rule "pearls on last" is so standard in fine jewellery that it was common practice in the nineteenth century. It remains correct.

The chlorine problem

The least-known significant threat to fine jewellery is chlorine: specifically, the chlorine concentration in swimming pools and hot tubs. This is worth explaining in some detail because the damage it causes is usually invisible until something goes wrong.

Gold jewellery is not pure gold. 18-carat gold is 75 per cent gold and 25 per cent alloy metals, typically copper, silver, and zinc. 14-carat gold is 58.5 per cent gold. 9-carat gold (the UK legal minimum for the "gold" designation) is 37.5 per cent gold. The alloy metals are what chlorine attacks.

Concentrated chlorine, particularly in heated water (hot tubs reach temperatures that accelerate chemical reactions), causes oxidation and stress corrosion in gold alloys. The damage is usually not visible on the surface. It manifests as structural weakening of the metal, which typically makes itself known as a prong failure: the claw holding a stone cracks or breaks, the stone falls out, and the jeweller who examines the setting afterwards finds chlorine-related stress fracturing that has been developing for years.

The rule is to remove all gold jewellery before swimming, using a hot tub, or cleaning with products containing bleach. Silver jewellery tarnishes rapidly in chlorinated water. Platinum is more resistant but is still best removed for swimming.

This also applies to household cleaning. Bleach-based cleaners, some bathroom products, and certain dishwasher tablets contain enough chlorine to cause cumulative damage to gold settings over years of regular contact.

Cleaning by metal

Yellow gold, rose gold: Warm water, a small amount of mild dish soap (Fairy or equivalent), and a very soft brush (an old toothbrush works well if the bristles are soft). Work the brush gently around settings, behind stones, and along chains. Rinse thoroughly under warm running water. Pat dry with a soft lint-free cloth. Air dry fully before storing. This is safe for all yellow and rose gold pieces, including those with heat-treated stones. The dish soap cuts through skin oil (the most common cause of dull-looking gold) without affecting the metal or most stones.

Never use toothpaste. Toothpaste is mildly abrasive, intended for enamel. Against a polished gold surface or a softer stone, it causes micro-scratches that accumulate into a dulled surface.

White gold: Same cleaning method as yellow gold. There is one additional consideration specific to white gold: the bright white colour comes from a rhodium plating applied over the white gold alloy (which is slightly yellowish on its own). Rhodium plating is not permanent. With daily wear, it typically lasts two to five years before wearing visibly thin, at which point the slightly warmer colour of the underlying alloy shows through, particularly on the underside of a ring. Re-rhodium plating is a standard service at most fine jewellers, costs £50 to £150 depending on the piece, and restores the original bright white finish. This is normal maintenance, not a flaw in the piece.

Platinum: Warm water and mild dish soap, as for gold. Platinum does not tarnish, but it does develop a patina (a soft, matte finish) from the micro-scratches of daily wear. Most platinum wearers come to prefer the patina (it gives the metal a depth and warmth that fresh-polished platinum lacks), but the original mirror finish can be restored by a jeweller with a standard polishing procedure. The key distinction between platinum and gold scratching: when platinum is scratched, the metal is displaced to adjacent areas, not lost. When gold is scratched, metal is removed. This is why platinum pieces remain their original weight over decades of wear while gold pieces gradually thin.

Sterling silver: Silver tarnishes. The brown-to-black discolouration is silver sulfide, formed when the copper in the silver alloy reacts with sulfur compounds present in air, certain foods, rubber bands, wool, and skin. Tarnish is not damage; it cleans off easily. A silver polishing cloth removes light tarnish without liquid. Silver dip solutions remove heavier tarnish quickly by dissolving the silver sulfide, but should never be used on silver pieces that contain pearls, opals, turquoise, coral, amber, or any other porous or soft stone, and should not be used on intentionally oxidised silver (where the dark colouration is part of the design). For oxidised silver, use only a polishing cloth on the high points.

For storage: silver tarnishes from air contact. Anti-tarnish strips in the jewellery box slow the process. Individual fabric pouches for each piece slow it further. Storing silver in a sealed zip-lock bag with an anti-tarnish strip is not elegant but is highly effective for pieces worn infrequently.

Cleaning by stone

The most consequential differences in jewellery care are between stone types rather than metal types. The mistakes here, particularly with emeralds, pearls, and opals, can cause genuine and irreversible damage.

Diamonds: Mohs 10, the hardest natural substance, and largely impervious to cleaning chemicals. The most common cause of a dull diamond is accumulated skin oil and soap residue, not damage. Mild dish soap and warm water with a soft brush is the standard at-home method. Professional ultrasonic cleaners (which clean by high-frequency vibration in a liquid solution) are safe for most diamonds and very effective at removing grease. Exceptions: avoid ultrasonic cleaners for diamonds with significant clarity-enhancing fractures (fracture-filled diamonds), or for any diamond with a large visible inclusion that runs to the surface. These can be damaged by vibration.

Rubies and sapphires (untreated or heat-treated): Mohs 9, highly durable. Mild soap and water, safe for ultrasonic in most cases. Exceptions are important: fracture-filled rubies (which have had glass or resin injected into surface fractures to improve apparent clarity) should never be put in an ultrasonic cleaner: the filler will be removed. The treatment status of any significant ruby should be verified before cleaning; it is standard practice for reputable dealers to disclose filling treatments.

Emeralds: This is the critical exception most care guides miss. Emeralds are beryl (Mohs 7.5 to 8) and usually adequately hard for normal wear, but virtually every commercial emerald has been oiled: cedar oil or synthetic resin is injected into the surface-reaching fractures that are present in nearly all natural emeralds, improving apparent clarity. The oil treatment is normal, disclosed, and standard in the trade. The crucial point for cleaning is that ultrasonic cleaners, steam cleaners, and harsh detergents remove the oil, making the previously-concealed inclusions visible and significantly diminishing the stone's apparent quality. Clean emeralds only with a damp cloth or very mild warm water without submersion. Periodically, the oil treatment will need refreshing by a specialist jeweller — this is normal and expected.

Pearls: Organic (calcium carbonate) and very soft (Mohs 2.5 to 4.5). Clean with a soft damp cloth only. Never submerge in water, never use ultrasonic or steam, never use any chemical solution. Acids (including mild fruit acids in some hand creams and perfumes) dissolve nacre. The rule about applying perfume before pearls exists for this reason. Store pearls flat, not hanging (which stresses the string), and do not store in airtight containers — pearls are organic and need minor atmospheric moisture to prevent the nacre from drying. Pearl strands worn regularly should be re-knotted and restrung every two to three years; silk thread absorbs moisture and weakens, and re-knotting prevents pearl-on-pearl abrasion and limits loss if the string breaks.

Opals: Contain 5 to 20 per cent water in their crystal structure, which is what produces the characteristic colour play. They can craze (develop surface cracks) if they dry out rapidly or experience sudden temperature change. Never put opals in an ultrasonic cleaner, steam cleaner, or hot water. Clean with a damp cloth. Avoid prolonged direct sunlight. Do not store opals in an airtight container for extended periods.

Softer coloured stones (turquoise, coral, malachite, amber, jet): All porous, all soft (Mohs 3 to 6), all absorb oils, chemicals, and cosmetic products. Clean only with a dry or barely damp cloth. No chemical cleaners, no ultrasonic, no steam. Turquoise is particularly susceptible to colour change from absorbed oils: a turquoise piece that has been in regular contact with skin cream for years will often show an irreversible colour shift. There is no remedy once absorption has occurred.

Harder coloured stones (aquamarine, tourmaline, garnet, tanzanite, citrine, amethyst): Generally safer for mild soap and water, though treatment status should be checked before ultrasonic. Tanzanite (Mohs 6.5 to 7) has strong cleavage and is more fragile than its hardness suggests; avoid ultrasonic. Garnets can be sensitive to sudden temperature changes; avoid steam. When in doubt, mild soap and water is the safe default.

Moonstone: Mohs 6 to 6.5 with perfect cleavage, meaning a sharp knock can cause it to split along internal crystal planes. Clean with a damp cloth. Avoid ultrasonic and steam. Store carefully.

Storage

The three principles for jewellery storage: store separately, store in fabric, store away from direct light and heat.

Store separately. The most overlooked cause of jewellery damage is jewellery stored together. A diamond, at Mohs 10, will scratch almost anything it touches in a shared jewellery box. A ruby (Mohs 9) will scratch anything softer. Even among hard stones, metal-on-metal contact causes micro-abrasion. Every piece benefits from its own pouch or compartment.

Store in fabric. Fabric pouches prevent scratch contact and absorb minor moisture fluctuations. Avoid plastic bags for silver (the off-gassing from certain plastics can accelerate tarnish). Fabric-lined jewellery boxes or individual suede or velvet pouches are the practical standard.

Store away from light and heat. Direct sunlight fades certain stone treatments and some naturally coloured stones (amethyst is known to fade with prolonged UV exposure). Heat can affect some treated stones. Keep fine jewellery in a drawer or closed box rather than on a window-sill display.

When to see a professional

Once a year is a reasonable baseline for any piece worn daily. The jeweller is checking things you cannot easily assess at home: prong integrity (a prong can be nearly worn through without being obviously visible), the security of settings, any stress cracks in the metal. Many fine jewellers offer free annual check-up services for pieces purchased from them.

Go sooner if: a stone looks loose or rattles in its setting; a clasp is not fastening securely; a piece has received a sharp knock; or a setting looks visibly bent or damaged.

Professional cleaning uses methods unavailable at home: steam cleaning removes grease from behind stones that brush cleaning cannot reach, and professional ultrasonics are more powerful and better-calibrated than consumer versions. For pieces with stones that cannot be ultrasonically cleaned (emeralds, pearls, opals), professional hand-cleaning and polishing achieves similar results safely.

The annual check-up is also the right moment to have white gold re-rhodium plated if the colour has shifted, to have pearl strings inspected and re-knotted if needed, and to address any slight bend or deformation in wire-set or channel-set pieces before it becomes a stone-loss problem.

The quick reference list

The things to never do, condensed:

Never clean with toothpaste, baking soda, or vinegar
Never put pearls, opals, emeralds, or turquoise in an ultrasonic cleaner
Never put any jewellery in an ultrasonic if you don't know its treatment status
Never put any jewellery in a hot tub or swimming pool
Never spray perfume, hairspray, or sunscreen onto or near pearls
Never store pieces together without fabric separation
Never use silver dip on jewellery set with soft or porous stones
Never clean jewellery with ammonia-based products unless specifically advised by a jeweller
Never use a rough cloth or paper towel: fibres cause micro-scratches on polished surfaces

Frequently asked questions

How often should I clean my jewellery?

Pieces worn daily benefit from a brief warm-water rinse once a week to remove skin oil and product residue, and a proper clean with mild soap and a soft brush monthly. Pieces worn occasionally can be cleaned before and after each wearing. An annual professional check and clean is appropriate for any piece of significant value worn regularly.

Can I clean my jewellery with toothpaste?

No. Toothpaste contains mild abrasives designed for tooth enamel. Against polished metal surfaces or softer stones, it causes micro-scratches that accumulate into visible surface dulling. The same applies to baking soda, which is similarly abrasive. For diamonds and hard stones in gold settings, mild dish soap and a soft brush is the correct method and more effective than toothpaste.

Is it safe to use an ultrasonic cleaner at home?

Home ultrasonic cleaners are safe for diamonds in gold or platinum settings, and for most untreated or heat-treated hard coloured stones (sapphires, rubies, aquamarines). They should never be used for emeralds (removes oil treatment), pearls, opals, coral, turquoise, amber, or any stone with unknown treatment status. They are also not appropriate for very included diamonds or any fracture-filled stone. When in doubt, warm water and a soft brush is the safe alternative.

Why does my white gold ring look yellow?

White gold jewellery is coated with rhodium plating to produce a bright white colour. The plating wears off gradually with daily wear, typically over two to five years, revealing the slightly warmer colour of the underlying white gold alloy. This is normal and expected. Re-rhodium plating, available at any fine jeweller, costs approximately £50 to £150 and restores the original bright white finish. The service takes one to three days.

Can I wear my jewellery in the shower?

A brief shower with mild soap is unlikely to cause immediate damage to gold or platinum pieces set with hard stones, but regular shower exposure to soap, shampoo, and conditioner residue will build up over the stone surface and require more frequent cleaning. Chlorinated water (check if your local water is heavily treated) can affect gold alloys over time. The safest habit is to remove jewellery before showering, and always remove it before swimming in pools or using hot tubs.

How should I store gold jewellery to prevent scratching?

Store each gold piece separately in a fabric pouch or in individual compartments in a fabric-lined jewellery box. Gold (particularly 9 and 14 carat, which contain softer alloy percentages) scratches against other metals and against harder gemstones when stored together. Even similarly-coloured gold chains stored together will cause micro-abrasion over time. Individual fabric pouches are the practical minimum; a structured jewellery box with separate compartments is more convenient.

How do I care for pearl jewellery specifically?

Wipe pearls clean after each wearing with a soft damp cloth. Apply perfume, hairspray, and cosmetics before putting on pearls, not after. Store flat in a fabric pouch, not hanging (which stresses the thread). Never submerge pearls in water, use ultrasonic or steam cleaners, or expose them to any acidic or chemical product. Have pearl strands re-knotted and restrung every two to three years if worn regularly. For more on the contemporary pearl market, see our guide to wearing pearls in 2026.